Method of making shoes over sheathed last utilizing a lasting element

ABSTRACT

A method for making shoes over a sheathed last using a lasting element. In one embodiment of the invention, the lasting element comprises a single layer of a very thin and relatively flexible material while in another embodiment, the lasting element comprises a laminated structure.

United States Patent 1191 Rubico et al.

[ 1 July 17, 1973 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES OVER SHEA'IIIED LAST UTILIZINGA LASTING ELEMENT [76] Inventors: Jerome A. Rubico, 196 Trenton St.,

Boston; Charles F. Batchelder, 75 Canton Ave., Milton, both of Mass.

22 Filed: on. 21, 1971 21 Appl. No.: 191,416

Related US. Application Data [60] Division of Ser. No. 66,212, Aug. 24,1970, which is a continuation-in-part of Ser. No. 805,205, May 7, 1969,Pat. No. 3,525,] 10.

[52] US. Cl. 12/142 R [58] Field of Search 12 142 R, 142 F, 12/145, 1 A,107; 36/72 c Primary Examiner-Patrick D. Lawson Attorney-Chittick,Thompson & Pfund [57] ABSTRACT A method for making shoes over a sheathedlast using a lasting element. In one embodiment of the invention, thelasting element comprises a single layer of a very thin and relativelyflexible material while in another embodiment, the lasting elementcomprises a laminated structure.

11 Claims, 14 Drawing Figures NEW- SHEATH ADHESIVE COATING COVER LASTWITH SHEATH REUSABLE I SHEATH DOUBLE FACED ADHESIVE TAPE ATTACH BACKHEIGHT CONTROL TAPE WAFER SHEATH TEMPORARILY ADHESNELY SECURE INSOLE TOINSOLE SHEATH ON LAST BOTTOM POSITION UPPER ON LAST STRUCTURALLYCOMPLETE SHOE DISCARD SHEATH WITHDRAW SHEATH [REMOVE TAPE I I INSERTSOCKLINING I FINISH SHOE I NEW SHEATH PAIIINIEB JUL I 71075 SHEEI 1 UI 6COVER LAST WITH SHEATH ADHESIVE COATING REUSABLE SHEATH SHEATH i] INSOLETEMPORARILY ADI-IESIVELY SECURE INSOLE TO SHEATH ON LAST BOTTOM DOUBLEFACED ADHESIVE TAPE ATTACH BACK HEIGHT CONTROL TAPE WAFER POSITION UPPERON LAST I LAST SHOE I STRUCTU RALLY COMPLETE SHOE FIG. I

DISCARD SHEATH PULL LAST REMOVE TAPFI WITH DRAW SHEATH l INSERTSOCKLININF] FINISH SHOE INVENTORS CHARLES E BATCHELDER JEROME A. RUBICOPATENTEDJ'J 1 71975 SHEU 2 m 6 FIG. 2

INVENTORS CHARLES F. BATCHELDER JEROME A. RUBlCO PATENTEiJumms 3,745,600

SHEET 3 OF 6 NEW. 'COVER LAST REUSABLE SHEATH WITH. SHEATH SHEAT'H'TEMPORARILY ADHEHSIVELY SECURE LASTING ELEMENT TO SHEA-TH ON LAST BOTTOMSECURE TUCK OR HEEL TUCK WITH A v POSITION vs UPPER RESPECT TO H A H ONLAST ADHESIVELY LAST AT-LE'AsT FoREPART L sTRucTuRALLY COMPLETE SHOEPULL LAST. y L DISCARD WITHDRAW 'SHEATH SHEATH I INSERT SOCKLINING 1 lFINISH SHOE FIG6 ' INVENTOR. CHARLES E BATCHELDER BY JEROMEA RIUBIHCO OFUPPER To LASTING ELEMENT T I PAIENIEB I 7 I975 3. 745.600

SHEEI 0F 6 NEW OOvER 'LAST REUSABLE SHEATH WITH SHEATH SHEATHTEMPORARILY ADHESIVELY SECURE LASTING ELEMENT WITH PERIPHERAL SEWING RIBTO SHEATH ON LAST BOTTOM POSITION UPPER ON LAST I LAST-AT LEAST APORTION OF UPPER TO SEWING RIB SECURE GOODYEAR WELT TO SEWING RIBSTRUCTURALLY COMPLETE SHOE PULL LAST DI WITHDRAW SHEATH SHEATH IN SE RTSOCKLINING I FIG? FINISH SHOE INVENTOR. CHARLES F. BATCHELDER BY JEROMEA. RUBICO PAHENTEM 1 3,745,600

sum 5 [IF 6 INVENTOR. CHARLES F. BATCHELDER BY JEROME ARUBICO 1 METHODOF MAKING SHOES OVER SI-IEATHED LAST UTILIZING A LASTING ELEMENTCROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS This application is a divisionof application Ser. No. 66,212 filed on Aug. 24, 1970, which is acontinuationin-part of application Ser. No. 805,205, now U.S. Pat. No.3,525,110 filed by the present inventors on May 7, 1969 for Method ofMaking Shoes Over Sheathed Lasts and assigned to the same assignee asthe present application.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to shoe-makingin general, and more specifically, to a method of making shoes oversheathed lasts utilizing various types of lasting elements.

In the parent application Ser. No. 805,205, there is disclosed a processfor making shoes using a removable, intermediary sheath that is tightlyfitted over at least a portion of the bottom of the last. Preferably,the sheath is formed from a thermoshrinkable, thermoplastic film of thetype currently used in the packaging industry for shrink wrapping goods.Conventional bagging and heat shrinking equipment provide a rapid andinexpensive means for producing the conforming sheath for the last.

After the last has been covered with the removable sheath, an insoleelement is temporarily adhesively secured to the sheath on the lastbottom. With the insole correctly placed on and releasably secured tothe sheath on the last bottom, the shoe-making process then proceeds ina normal fashion. The upper is positioned on the last and lasted to theinsole. Thereafter, the shoe is structurally completed and the lastpulled. At this point in the shoe-making process, the sheath is normallywithdrawn from the shoe, if desired, a socklining is subsequentlyinserted in the shoe. Depending upon the particular type of sheathemployed in practicing the process, the sheath can be re-used on thesame or another last or discarded.

The present invention utilizes the basic BARU- WAY process described inthe above-mentioned copending application Ser. No. 805,205 inconjunction with various types of lasting elements which, among otherthings, facilitate the use of the process in the manufacture of a numberof lines of shoes including Goodyear and flat lasted shoes.

The specific objects, features and advantages of the present inventioncan best be understood from the following detailed description of apreferred embodiment of the invention, selected for purposes ofillustration and shown in the accompanying drawings.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a flow diagram illustrating inblock form the sequential steps of the BARUWAY shoe-making process;

FIG. 2 is a plan view of a bagging, sealing and heat shrinking stationshowing the bagging, sealing and heat shrinking of a thermoshrinkablesheath around a last;

FIG. 3 is a view in side elevation of the station shown in FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 is a view in side elevation depicting a last covered with a heatshrunk thermoplastic sheath;

FIG. 5 is a view of the bottom of the last shown in FIG. 4;

FIG. 6 is a flow diagram illustrating the use of lasting element and anoptional tuck or heel tuck in the BARUWAY process; I

FIG. 7 is a flow diagram illustrating the use of a lasting element withsewing rib for the manufacture of Goodyear shoes using the BARUWAYprocess;

FIG. 8 is a plan view of one form of the lasting element;

FIG. 9 is a view in section of the lasting element taken along lines 9-9in FIG. 8;

FIG. 10 is another view in section showing the lasting element with aninclined peripheral sewing rib thereon;

FIG. 11 is a flow diagram illustrating in block form the sequentialsteps of the BARUWAY shoe-making process using a laminated lastingelement;

FIG. 12 is a veiw in section of a portion of another version of thelasting element showing the use of a liminated two ply construction;

FIG. 13 is another view in section of a portion of a laminated, threeply lasting element; and,

FIG. 14 is a diagrammatic view in section of a shoe incorporating thelasting element.

Turning now to the drawings and particularly to FIG.

1 thereof, there is shown in block form a flow diagram of the BARUWAYmethod of making shoes over sheathed lasts which is described in detailin the abovementioned copending application Ser. No. 805 ,205.

The basic concept of the BARUWAY process is the partial or fullencasement of a shoe last within a removable sheath of thin materialthat is closely fitted over at least a portion of the last bottom. Thesheath is a means by which the structural elements of a shoe can beadhesively assembled in their proper design relationship without anydirect adhesive attachment to the last. The term sheath, as used herein,is generic to both a partial and a full sheath, i.e., one which coversonly a portion of the last and one which covers the entire last. Thepartial or full sheath is mechanically bonded or held in position overthe last bottom without the use of any attaching means between thesheath and the last bottom. In other words, no adhesive tacks or otherattaching means are interposed between the bottom of the last and thelast bottom contacting inner surface of the sheath.

With the last covered by either a partial or a full sheath, one or moreelements of the shoe are adhesively secured to the sheath. In a sense,the sheath functions as an intermediary between the shoe elements andthe last itself. The shoe is then structurally formed around thesheathed last. The sheath can be removed from or left in the finishedshoe depending upon the desired type of shoe construction. Theparticular shoemaking operations employed in manufacturing the shoe willbe described below after we discuss the sheath itself and the method forsheathing the last.

Preferably, the sheath is formed from one of the wellknown heatshrinkable, thermoplastic films, such as the polyolefin films includingpolypropylene and polyethylene, vinylidene chloride (saran), orstabilized polyvinyl chloride (PVC) that are currently used in thepackaging industry. The use of heat shrinkable films is quite desirablebecause the resulting heat shrunk sheath tightly conforms to thecompound curvatures of the last and provides a dimensionally stable,fixed intermediary element between the last bottom and an overlyinginsole.

However, it should be undestood that the sheath can be faricated in anumber of ways from a variety of suitable materials. For example,conventional vacuum forming techniques including flow on applicationscan be employed to sheath the bottom and sides of the last.Alternatively, rubber latex and other similar materials can be spraycoated on or dip formed around the shoe last. Stretchable molded rubbersand elasticized fabrics can also be used in the construction of a fullor partial sheath. Although sheaths formed in this manner can be reusedfor a number of times, we believe that the maximum manufacturingeconomies will be realized from the use of a disposable sheath ofthermoshrinkable, thermoplastic film that is heat shrunk around the shoelast.

The equipment for sheathing a shoe last with a sheath ofthermoshrinkable, thermoplastic film is shown in plan view in FIG. 2 andin side elevation in FIG. 3. The equipment comprises a sealing machineand a heat shrinking machine indicated generally by the referencenumerals l and 12, respectively. Commerical machines for performing boththe sealing and heat shrinking operations are readily available and wellknown to those in the packaging industry. For example, Applicants haveexperimented with the sealing machine manufacutred by the WeldotronCorp. of Newark, New Jersey, and sold under the nomenclature of ConsoleType Automatic Package Forming Machine, Series 5200 to seal heatshrinkable film around a last. Subsequent heat shrinking of the film wasdone in Weldotrons Shrink Tunnel Model 7121. Of course, othercommercially available units can be used to seal and heat shrink thethermoplastic film around a last.

The sealing and shrinking operations can best be understood by examiningFIGS. 2 through 8 in conjunction with the following description. Lookingat FIGS. 2 and 3, the sealing machine 10 comprises a supply roll 14, awork or bagging surface 16, a conveyer l8 and a pivotally mountedsealing head containing one or more selectively energizable sources ofthermal energy (not shown). The internal components of the sealingmachine 10, such as, the pneumatic or hydraulic systems, electricalequipment, drive motors and so forth, have not been shown in thedrawings for purposes of clarity.

The supply roll 14 has a heat shrinkable film 22 wound thereon in sleeveform with a fold line 22a facing away from the operator as viewed inFIG. 2. A number of readily available heat shrinkable materials can beused to form the sheath. For example, we have used heat shrinkable PVCfilm sold by the Reynolds Metals Co. under the trademark Reynolon and1.5 mil PVC film sold the the Borden Chemical Co. of No. Andover,Massachusetts. The thickness of the film before shrinking is notcritical. However, for purposes of maxi mum economy and ease ofoperation, we prefer a film thickness of approximately 0.75 mils beforeshrinking.

Referring to the plan view of FIG. 2, the normal operator position islocated directly in front of the sealing machine 10. When wrapping aconventional bare last 24, the operator places the last in the centerfolded heat shrinkable film 22 and then moves both the last and filmtogether to a position directly beneath the pivotally mounted sealinghead 20 as indicated by the arrow in FIG. 2. The operator then initiatesthe sealing cycle by actuating the appropriate machine controls 26. Uponactuation of the controls 26, the sealing head 20 is automaticallylowered to the horizontal or sealing position by pneumatic or hydraulicmeans. When the sealing head is in the sealing position, the source orsources of thermal energy are energized to form a bag 28 by sealing theupstream edge 28a and facing side 28b of the center folded heatshrinkable film 22. The sealing operation also severs the upstream ofthe bag from the leading edge 28c of the next bag. Thus, after the firstsealing cycle, the leading edge 28c, of each bag is sealed by thepreceding sealing operation.

After sealing, the bagged last is moved by conveyer 18 onto conveyer 30which carries the bagged last through a heat tunnel 32 that generatessufficient heat to cause the heat shrinkable film bag 28 to shrinktightly around the last thereby forming a sheath 34. Upon emerging fromthe heat tunnel, the sheathed last 24 is deposited in a collecting tub36 located at the downstream end of conveyer 32.

The last and the tightly fitting sheath of thermoshrunk, thermoplasticfilm are shown in greater detail in the side elevation and bottom viewsof FIGS. 4 and 5. From an inspection of FIGS. 2 through 5, it can beseen that the sealed bag side 28b, after heat shrinking, forms a seam 38that extends substantially along the longitudinal axis of the lastbottom. This particular location of the sheath seam 38 is produced byplacing the bare last 24 within bag 28 as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3. Thelast generally should be positioned with the heel portion of the lastreasonably close to the corner of the sealing head 20 so that the lastislocated approximately along the diagonal of bag 28. It is also desirableto keep the bag sizes as small as possible in order to insure a good,tight, shrink of the film around the bare last.

Alternatively, the seam 38 can be positioned on the upper surface of thelast leaving a smooth, unseamed area of thermoshrunk film on the lastbottom. This sealing arrangement is obtained by positioning the last 24within the bag of thermoshrinkable film with the last bottom facing thecenter fold 22a of the film.

It should be noted that the seam placement on the sheathed last is not acritical parameter of the BARU- WAY process and that the process can bepracticed with the scam in a number of locations. However, we believethat it is preferable to position the seam on the upper surface on thelast in order to provide a uniform, unseamed, sheath surface on thebottom of the last. This arrangment will produce a tighter lasting ofthe shoe upper to the insole. Furthermore, if there is any offsetmarking of the shoe components by the irregular ridge or bump of scam38, the marking will appear on the realtively unseen, inside surface ofthe upper lining rather than on the highly visible exposed surface oftheinsole in the finished shoe.

The sheathing of the shoe last is the first step in the practice of theBARUWAY process. Referring back to the flow diagram of FIG. I, the nextstep in the process is the use of the sheath as an intermediary to whichelements of the shoe can be adhesively attached, in lieu of adhesiveattachment directly to a bare last as taught by the previously mentionedprior art.

With the last bottom covered by the tightly fitting sheath, an insoleelement is temporarily secured to the sheath by adhesive means insteadof by the traditional method of nailing.

Various adhesive means can be employed in the BARUWAY process totemporarily adhesively secure the insole to the intermediary sheath. Forthe large volume of cement-process shoes which normally have asocklining over their insoles, we prefer to use an adhesive layerbetween the insole and sheath. For shoes such as Goodyear welts whichcommonly have no socklining in the finished shoe, a double-facedadhesive tape can be applied to either the sheath itself or to theinsole. After withdrawal of the last and subsequent removal of thesheath, the tape can be used to hold a socklining in place.Alternatively, the tape can be removed from the finished shoe.

It should be noted that regardless of the particular means of adhesiveinsole attachment, none of the adhesive actually contacts the lastbottom because of the adherance of the insole to the sheath and not tothe last itself. The sheath functions as a removable intermediary tohold the insole in proper juxtaposition against the last bottom forsubsequent lasting of the upper components to the insole.

Once the upper has been accurately positioned on the last, the shoe islasted and structurally completed in a conventional manner. Thestructurally completed shoe is now ready for last pulling. The sheath iscut or broken around the throat of the shoe to permit the last to bepulled from the shoe. After insertion of the socklining, the shoe isfinished in a conventional manner.

The preceding description of the BARUWAY process has been directed tothe use of the preferred disposable sheath formed from athermoshrinkable, thermoplastic film. However, a BARUWAY process is notlimited to the use of such a disposable thermoplastic sheath. Forinstance, it has already been mentioned that a re-usable sheath can beformed from a variety of materials including stretch fabrics, moldedrubber, synthetics and the like.

Having briefly reviewed the BARUWAY shoemaking process described in theabove-mentioned copending application Ser. No. 805,205, we will nowdiscuss the various types of lasting elements used in the presentinvention to implement the BARUWAY process. Since no tacks are requiredfor securing the lasting element to the last in the BARUWAY process, anextremely lightweight and flexible material can be employed as thelasting element. Materials such as No. 12 Gem duck or 155-2 iron TEXONcan be employed as a lasting element in the BARUWAY process. From thestandpoint of comfort and flexibility in the finished shoe, it is quitedesirable to use a material that is extremely flexible in the interiorportion of the toe area of the lasting element. We have found thatmaterial having a longitudinal stiffness not in excess of 0.057inchpounds and a laterial stiffness not in excess of 0.168 inch-poundsas measured by Federal Test Method Standard No. 311, Testing Method No.4211, published by the General Services Administration, dated Jan. 15,1969, is quite suitable. It will be appreciated that the lastingelements described herein are not limited to materials which meet theflexibility requirements set forth above. However, in order to obtainmaximum flexibility in the finished shoe, we do recommend that thelasting element meet these requirements for flexibility.

Looking at FIG. 6, the basic BARUWAY process is shown with a lastingelement temporarily adhesively secured to the sheath on the last bottom.In some shoe constructions it may be desirable to employ either a fulltuck or a heel tuck. The use of such tucks is illustrated in the flowdiagram of FIG. 6 by the dashed lines. Pref erably, the full tuck andheel tuck are secured with respect to the sheath by adhesive means. Thisoperation is performed between the step of temporarily adhesivelysecuring the lasting element to the sheath on .the last bottom and thestep of positioning the upper on the last.

The back part of the upper and its components are lasted to theunderside of the tuck by conventional means, such as staples oradhesive, while the forepart of the upper is lasted to the lastingelement by adhesive. The remaining steps in the process illustrated inFIG. 6 are the same as the basic BARUWAY process. If desired, asocklining can be inserted in the shoe after withdrawal of the sheath,as illustrated by the solid lines in FIG. 6. Alternatively, thesocklining can be omitted and the shoe finished immediately after thestep of withdrawing the sheath as shown by the dashed lines.

One type of lasting element that is suitable for the process describedin connection with FIG. 6 is illustrated in FIGS. 8 and 9. The lastingelement 40 is cut from a gem duck into the correct size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe. The lasting element 40has a central portion 42 and a folded over lasting margin 44. With thisconfiguration, the lasting margin 44 can be lifted for subsequentinseammg.

It has already been metnioned that one of the objects of the presentinvention is to provide a method of making shoes over sheathed lastsusing a lasting element that facilitates the manufacture of Goodyearwelt shoes. The flow diagram for manufacturing a Goodyear welt shoe withthe BARUWAY process and the lasting element of the present invention isillustrated in FIG. 7. Suitable lasting element for the Goodyear weltconstruction are shown in FIGS. 10 and 13. The lasting element with aperipheral sewing rib 46, either inclined (FIG. 10) or upstanding (FIG.13) is temporarily adhesively secured to the sheath on the last bottom.After positioning the upper on the last, at least a portion of the upperis lasted to the sewing rib. Thereafter, a Goodyear welt is secured byconventional means to the sewing rib. The subsequent shoe-making processfollows along in the same manner as illustrated in FIG. 6 and discussedpreviously in connection with the basic BARUWAY process.

The use of another form of a lasting element is illustrated in flowdiagram form in FIG. 11 and shown in structural cross-section in FIGS.12 and 13. In this embodiment, the lasting element comprises alamination of at least two plies which are temporarily held inlamination by an adhesive. Looking at FIG. 12, there is in laminatedform, a lasting element ply 40 and a socklining ply 48 which aretemporarily adhesively held in lamination by an adhesive 50. A multipleply combination using more than two plies is illustrated in FIG. 13 andwill be discussed below in connection with the manufacture of Goodyearwelt shoes.

Looking at FIG. 11, the first, step in the process is the temporaryadhesive lamination of the lasting element and socklining plies 40 and48, respectively. Preferably, the lasting element and socklining pliesare laminated together while in sheet form and then they are shaped intothe final size and contour for incorporation in a structurally completedshoe. However, it will be 7 appreciated that it is possible toseparately shape the socklining and lasting element plies beforetemporarily adhesively laminating the two plies. Given the sized andcontoured laminated plies, the next step in the process for anon-Goodyear welt shoe is the separation of the socklining and lastingelement plies. After separation, the socklining ply is put aside forsubsequent use in the shoemaking process; At this point in the process,a heel tuck can be secured to the lasting element ply as shown by thedashed line in FIG. 11.

In accordance with the basic BARUWAY process, at least a portion of thelast bottom is covered with a sheath. The lasting element ply is .thentemporarily adhesively secured to the sheath on the last bottom. Ifdesired, the heel tuck can be secured to the lasting element at thispoint in the shoe-making process. After positioning the upper on thelast, at least the forepart of the upper is adhesively lasted to thelasting element ply. Thereafter, the shoe is structurally completed, thelast pulled and the sheath withdrawn from the shoe. The previouslyseparated socklining ply is now inserted in the shoe and the shoe isthen finished in a conventional manner.

The steps for making a Goodyear welt shoe with the BARUWAY process andthe multi-ply laminated lasting elements are also illustrated in FIG.11. A combination of dash and dotted lines is used in FIG. 11 toindicate those steps which are specifically applicable to themanufacture of a Goodyear welt shoe. After shaping the laminated pliesinto the final size and contour for incorporation in the structurallycompleted shoe, a peripheral sewing rib is secured to the lastingelement ply by conventional means, such as, adhesive or stitching.

The multi-ply construction provides sufficient rigidity to permit sewingrib attachment using existing shoe machine equipment.

Looking at the right hand portion of FIG. 11, after the upper has beenpositioned on the last, at least a portion of the upper is lasted to thesewing rib on the lasting element ply. Thereafter, a Goodyear welt issecured to the sewing rib on the lasting element ply. The shoe is thenstructurally completed and the remaining steps are performed in the samemanner as described above.

In some instances it may be desirable to employ a cushion element in thefinished shoe. This can be accomplished easily in the BARUWAY process byusing the laminated version of the lasting element illustrated in FIG.13. In this case, the intermediate ply 52 is formed from a cushioningmaterial and is adhesively laminated to both the lasting element ply 40and the socklining ply 48 by means of adhesive layers 54 and 56respectively. Looking back at FIG. 11, after sizing and contouring thelaminated plies and securing the peripheral sewing rib 46 to the lastingelement ply 40, the socklining ply 48 is separated from the intermediateor cushion element ply 52 and the lasting element ply 40. The laminatedintermediate ply 52 and lasting element ply 40 are then temporarilyadhesively secured to the sheath on the last bottom with theintermediate ply 52 in contact with the sheath. The laminated cushionelement and lasting ply are treated in the same way as a single lastingelement ply in the subsequent shoemaking operations.

In the case of Goodyear welt shoes it also may be demulti-ply laminatedconstruction shown in FIG. 13 can be used with the intermediate ply 52constituting a throwaway ply. The thickness of the intermediate plycorresponds to the thickness of the socklining or the combined thicknessof the socklining and cushion if a cushion is used. The three plies arelaminated together as described above and then the socklining ply 48 isseparated from the intermediate ply 52 which remains in lamination withthe lasting element ply 40. The intermediate ply 52 and lasting ply 40are then temporarily adhesively secured in lamination to the sheath onthe last bottom with the intermediate ply 52 in contact with the sheath.The subsequent shoemaking steps are the same as described before downthrough the point where the sheath is withdrawn. At this stage in theshoemaking process, the intermediate ply 52 is removed from the shoe ifit did not come out with the sheath. Thereafter, the socklining ply 48and the cushion, if used, are inserted in the shoe and occupy the spacepreviously filled by the throwaway intermediate ply 52.

FIG. 14 illustrates in diagrammatic form and crosssection a shoeconstructed by means of the BARU- WAY process using a lasting elementwhich fulfills the longitudinal and lateral flexibility requirements setforth above. As shown in FIG. 14, the upper 58 is lasted to a lastingelement 60 with a sole element 62 secured to the exterior portion of theupper lasting margin. A suitable cushion or filler 64 may be used tofill the void defined by the inner surfaces of the lasting element 60and sole element 62 and the inner edges of the intumed lasting margin ofthe upper 58.

Having described in detail the preferred embodiment of our invention,what we claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the UnitedStates is:

l. A method of shoemaking comprising the steps of:

1. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath;

2. temporarily adhesively securing a lasting element to the sheath onthe last bottom;

3. securing a tuck or a heel tuck with respect to the sheath;

4. positioning an upper on the last;

5. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of the upper to the lastingelement;

6. structurally completing the shoe;

7. pulling the last;

8. withdrawing the sheath; and,

9. finishing the shoe.

2. A method of shoemaking comprising the steps of:

1. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath;

2. temporarily adhesively securing a lasting element having a peripheralsewing rib to the sheath on the last bottom;

3. positioning an upper on the last;

4. lasting at least a portion of the upper to the sewing rib;

5. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewing rib;

6. structurally completing the shoe;

7. pulling the last;

8. withdrawing the sheath; and,

9. finishing the shoe.

3. The method of claim 1 further characterized by inserting a sockliningbefore finishing the shoe.

4. The method of shoemaking comprising the steps of:

l. temporarily adhesively laminating at least a socklining ply and alasting element ply;

2. shaping the laminated plies into the final size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe;

3. separating the socklining and lasting element plies;

4. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath;

5. temporarily adhesively securing the lasting element ply to the sheathon the last bottom;

6. positioning an upper on the last;

7. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of the upper to the lastingelement ply;

8. structurally completing the shoe;

9. pulling the last;

10 withdrawing the sheath;

1 l. inserting the socklining ply; and,

12. finishing the shoe;

5. The method of shoemaking comprising the steps l. temporarilyadhesively laminating at least a socklining ply and a lasting elementply;

2. shaping the laminated plies into the final size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe;

3. securing a peripheral sewing rib to the lasting element ply;

4. separating the socklining and lasting element plies;

5. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath;

6. temporarily adhesively securing the lasting element ply to the sheathon the last bottom;

7. positioning an upper on the last;

8. lasting at least a portion of the upper to the sewing rib on thelasting element ply;

9. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewing rib on the lasting elementply;

l0. structurally completing the shoe;

ll. pulling the last;

12. withdrawing the sheath;

l3. inserting the socklining ply; and,

14. finishing the shoe.

6. The method of shoemaking comprising the steps 1. temporarilyadhesively laminating a socklining ply,

an intermediary ply, and a lasting element ply;

2. shaping the laminated plies into the final size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe;

3. separating the socklining ply from the intermediate and lastingelement plies;

4. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath; 5.temporarily adhesively securing the laminated intermediate and lastingelement plies to the sheathon the last bottom with the intermediate plyin contact with the sheath;

6. positioning an upper on the last;

7. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of the upper to the lastingelement ply;

8. structurally completing the shoe;

9. pulling the last;

10. withdrawing the sheath;

ll. inserting the socklining ply; and,

12. finishing the shoe.

7. The method of claim 6 wherein said intermediate ply comprises acushion material.

8. The method of claim 6 further characterized by removing theintermediate ply from the shoe before inserting the socklining ply.

9. The method of shoemaking comprising the steps of:

l. temporarily adhesively laminating a socklining ply,

an intermediate ply and a lasting element ply;

2. shaping the laminated plies into the final size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe;

3. securing a peripheral sewing rib to the lasting element ply;

4. separating the socklining ply from the intermediate and lastingelement plies;

5. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath;

6. temporarily adhesively securing the laminated intermediate andlasting element plies to the sheath on the last bottom with theintermediate ply in contact with the sheath;

7. positioning an upper on the last;

8. lasting at least a portion of the upper to the sewing rib on thelasting element ply;

9. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewing rib on the lasting elementply;

l0. structurally completing the shoe;

ll. pulling the last;

12. withdrawing the sheath;

l3. inserting the socklining ply; and,

14. finishing the shoe.

10. The method of claim 9 wherein said intermediate ply comprises acushion material.

11. The method of claim 9 further characterized by removing theintermediate ply from the shoe before inserting the socklining.

1. A method of shoemaking comprising the steps of:
 1. covering at leasta portion of a last bottom with a sheath;
 2. temporarily adhesivelysecuring a lasting element to the sheath on the last bottom;
 3. securinga tuck or a heel tuck with respect to the sheath;
 4. positioning anupper on the last;
 5. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of theupper to the lasting element;
 6. structurally completing the shoe; 7.pulling the last;
 8. withdrawing the sheath; and,
 9. finishing the shoe.2. temporarily adhesively securing a lasting element to the sheath onthe last bottom;
 2. A method of shoemaking comprising the steps of: 2.temporarily adhesively securing a lasting element having a peripheralsewing rib to the sheath on the last bottom;
 2. shaping the laminatedplies into the final size and contour for incorporation in astructurally completed shoe;
 2. shaping the laminated plies into thefinal size and contour for incorporation in a structurally completedshoe;
 2. shaping the laminated plies into the final size and contour forincorporation in a structurally completed shoe;
 2. shaping the laminatedplies into the final size and contour for incorporation in astructurally completed shoe;
 3. securing a peripheral sewing rib to thelasting element ply;
 3. separating the socklining ply from theintermediate and lasting element plies;
 3. securing a peripheral sewingrib to the lasting element ply;
 3. The method of claim 1 furthercharacterized by inserting a socklining before finishing the shoe. 3.separating the socklining and lasting element plies;
 3. positioning anupper on the last;
 3. securing a tuck or a heel tuck with respect to thesheath;
 4. positioning an upper on the last;
 4. lasting at least aportion of the upper to the sewing rib;
 4. covering at least a portionof a last bottom with a sheath;
 4. The method of shoemaking comprisingthe steps of:
 4. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with asheath;
 4. separating the socklining and lasting element plies; 4.separating the socklining ply from the intermediate and lasting elementplies;
 5. covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath; 5.covering at least a portion of a last bottom with a sheath; 5.temporarily adhesively securing the laminated intermediate and lastingelement plies to the sheath on the last bottom with the intermediate plyin contact with the sheath;
 5. The method of shoemaking comprising thesteps of:
 5. temporarily adhesively securing the lasting element ply tothe sheath on the last bottom;
 5. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewingrib;
 5. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of the upper to thelasting element;
 6. structurally completing the shoe;
 6. structurallycompleting thE shoe;
 6. positioning an upper on the last;
 6. positioningan upper on the last;
 6. temporarily adhesively securing the lastingelement ply to the sheath on the last bottom;
 6. temporarily adhesivelysecuring the laminated intermediate and lasting element plies to thesheath on the last bottom with the intermediate ply in contact with thesheath;
 6. The method of shoemaking comprising the steps of: 7.positioning an upper on the last;
 7. The method of claim 6 wherein saidintermediate ply comprises a cushion material.
 7. positioning an upperon the last;
 7. adhesively lasting at least the forepart of the upper tothe lasting element ply;
 7. adhesively lasting at least the forepart ofthe upper to the lasting element ply;
 7. pulling the last;
 7. pullingthe last;
 8. withdrawing the sheath; and,
 8. withdrawing the sheath;and,
 8. structurally completing the shoe;
 8. structurally completing theshoe;
 8. lasting at least a portion of the upper to the sewing rib onthe lasting element ply;
 8. The method of claim 6 further characterizedby removing the intermediate ply from the shoe before inserting thesocklining ply.
 8. lasting at least a portion of the upper to the sewingrib on the lasting element ply;
 9. The method of shoemaking comprisingthe steps of:
 9. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewing rib on thelasting element ply;
 9. pulling the last;
 9. pulling the last; 10withdrawing the sheath;
 9. securing a Goodyear welt to the sewing rib onthe lasting element ply;
 9. finishing the shoe.
 9. finishing the shoe.10. structurally completing the shoe;
 10. structurally completing theshoe;
 10. withdrawing the sheath;
 10. The method of claim 9 wherein saidintermediate ply comprises a cushion material.
 11. The method of claim 9further characterized by removing the intermediate ply from the shoebefore inserting the socklining.
 11. inserting the socklining ply; and,11. pulling the last;
 11. pulling the last;
 11. inserting the sockliningply; and,
 12. finishing the shoe.
 12. withdrawing the sheath; 12.withdrawing the sheath;
 12. finishing the shoe.
 13. inserting thesocklining ply; and,
 13. inserting the socklining ply; and, 14.finishing the shoe.
 14. finishing the shoe.